Dubrovnik - a city that has survived the test of time
They built these walls for two reasons. To keep our enemies out and to keep our friends in."
"Once you are inside the walls, you are our friend for life."
Dubrovnik, croatiaâ"They built these walls for two reasons. To keep our enemies out and to keep our friends in."
"Once you are inside the walls, you are our friend for life."
For $3.50 Cdn., you gain access to what is simultaneously a panoramic view of the Croatian countryside and a many-levelled look at a city that has survived for 1,500 years. It takes about two hours to stroll the entire perimeter, but it's a journey you won't forget.
There are historical records dating Dubrovnik back to the 6th century, but most of the towers and walls still standing were built between the 8th and 16th centuries. Although an earthquake and fire destroyed much of the city in 1667, the walls remained standing.
They circle the city for a total of 1,940 metres and are close to 50 centimetres thick in some places. As you look down, a vista of terra-cotta coloured roofs greets your eyes, not only a pleasing visual sight, but a reminder of this place's durability.
During the conflict with Serbia in the early 1990s, many buildings inside the city walls were severely damaged. Once the war was over, the citizens rebuilt their homes so that they stand even prouder than before, although bullet holes and mortar shells serve as reminders of what happened.
That same troubled period signalled the end of tourism in the region for nearly a decade, but in the past five years, people have been eagerly discovering this beautiful and still relatively unspoiled spot.
Off to the west, you can see the Pile Gate, built in 1537, the entrance to the old city. No motorized vehicles are allowed past this gate, although it's hard to see how any of them could manoeuvre through the twisting alleyways and steep stairwells that honeycomb the area.
The one exception is the Stradun, the glorious and spacious marble promenade that runs through the centre of the old town. This is where local people meet to sit at cafes and pass the time.
It's fascinating to come back here at various times of the day to see the way the changing colours of the sunlight reflect on the glossy marble thoroughfare. As one friend suggested, "Spend a whole day on the Stradun, eat all your meals there and learn what Dubrovnik is really all about."
It's a relatively small town of 45,000 and the citizens are very friendly. They haven't had time yet to be jaded by being a major tourist attraction. Most speak a certain amount of English, although you may find yourself having to dip into Italian or French to complete the communications link.
The culinary origins of the city are equally divided between Italian, Greek and Croatian. There's a plentiful amount of gelaterias, offering excellent frozen treats for much lower prices than you'd find in Italy. (A two-scoop cone is less than $1). People also like to savour their espressos accompanied, of course, by sweet pastries.
There are also a number of pizzerias, but these tend to be tourist traps and you'd be well advised to avoid them. Look instead for the numerous unpretentious taverna-style places that dot the numerous tiny squares you stumble on. Here's where the Greek influence is strongest, with perfectly fresh and simply prepared seafood dominating the menus. The local mussels and oysters have a unique flavour and it's possible to dine well for under $10. If you want to sample the high end of Croatian cuisine and don't mind spending a little more, then try out Proto, in the Old Town, at Siroka 1, famous for its grilled meats and fish.
Afterwards, seek out the Café Buza, in the south side of the Old City. Look for a sign that simply says "Cold Drinks" over a hole in the wall and pass through to a simple place with a spectacular view. This is where you should try local alcoholic drinks like rakija, made from grapes, or sljivovica, from plums. Be careful, though; they pack a considerable punch and the way back is down a steep path!
In recent years, Dubrovnik has begun to undergo a tourism renaissance, especially among Europeans. Non-stop British Airways flights are now available from London. Most North Americans, however, encounter the city as one of the ports of call on a Mediterranean cruise. This means you have a limited amount of time here, but there are certain highlights, other than the city walls, that you must find time for.
The Franciscan monastery is a richly decorated church that contains the third-oldest functioning pharmacy in Europe â in business since 1391.
The Sponza Palace was built in 1516 and is an impressive combination of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The spacious atrium, with its boldly arched gallery, is not to be missed.
The synagogue is a beautifully maintained building from the 15th century. It's is the oldest Sephardic synagogue in Europe and still the house of worship for Dubrovnik's Jewish community.
If part of the joy of travel is discovery, then Dubrovnik is an ideal destination. It offers scenic beauty, magnificent historical architecture, fine local dining and â above all â the sense of a city that has survived and will continue to do so.
"Once you are inside the walls, you are our friend for life."
For $3.50 Cdn., you gain access to what is simultaneously a panoramic view of the Croatian countryside and a many-levelled look at a city that has survived for 1,500 years. It takes about two hours to stroll the entire perimeter, but it's a journey you won't forget.
There are historical records dating Dubrovnik back to the 6th century, but most of the towers and walls still standing were built between the 8th and 16th centuries. Although an earthquake and fire destroyed much of the city in 1667, the walls remained standing.
They circle the city for a total of 1,940 metres and are close to 50 centimetres thick in some places. As you look down, a vista of terra-cotta coloured roofs greets your eyes, not only a pleasing visual sight, but a reminder of this place's durability.
During the conflict with Serbia in the early 1990s, many buildings inside the city walls were severely damaged. Once the war was over, the citizens rebuilt their homes so that they stand even prouder than before, although bullet holes and mortar shells serve as reminders of what happened.
That same troubled period signalled the end of tourism in the region for nearly a decade, but in the past five years, people have been eagerly discovering this beautiful and still relatively unspoiled spot.
Off to the west, you can see the Pile Gate, built in 1537, the entrance to the old city. No motorized vehicles are allowed past this gate, although it's hard to see how any of them could manoeuvre through the twisting alleyways and steep stairwells that honeycomb the area.
The one exception is the Stradun, the glorious and spacious marble promenade that runs through the centre of the old town. This is where local people meet to sit at cafes and pass the time.
It's fascinating to come back here at various times of the day to see the way the changing colours of the sunlight reflect on the glossy marble thoroughfare. As one friend suggested, "Spend a whole day on the Stradun, eat all your meals there and learn what Dubrovnik is really all about."
It's a relatively small town of 45,000 and the citizens are very friendly. They haven't had time yet to be jaded by being a major tourist attraction. Most speak a certain amount of English, although you may find yourself having to dip into Italian or French to complete the communications link.
The culinary origins of the city are equally divided between Italian, Greek and Croatian. There's a plentiful amount of gelaterias, offering excellent frozen treats for much lower prices than you'd find in Italy. (A two-scoop cone is less than $1). People also like to savour their espressos accompanied, of course, by sweet pastries.
There are also a number of pizzerias, but these tend to be tourist traps and you'd be well advised to avoid them. Look instead for the numerous unpretentious taverna-style places that dot the numerous tiny squares you stumble on. Here's where the Greek influence is strongest, with perfectly fresh and simply prepared seafood dominating the menus. The local mussels and oysters have a unique flavour and it's possible to dine well for under $10. If you want to sample the high end of Croatian cuisine and don't mind spending a little more, then try out Proto, in the Old Town, at Siroka 1, famous for its grilled meats and fish.
Afterwards, seek out the Café Buza, in the south side of the Old City. Look for a sign that simply says "Cold Drinks" over a hole in the wall and pass through to a simple place with a spectacular view. This is where you should try local alcoholic drinks like rakija, made from grapes, or sljivovica, from plums. Be careful, though; they pack a considerable punch and the way back is down a steep path!
In recent years, Dubrovnik has begun to undergo a tourism renaissance, especially among Europeans. Non-stop British Airways flights are now available from London. Most North Americans, however, encounter the city as one of the ports of call on a Mediterranean cruise. This means you have a limited amount of time here, but there are certain highlights, other than the city walls, that you must find time for.
The Franciscan monastery is a richly decorated church that contains the third-oldest functioning pharmacy in Europe â in business since 1391.
The Sponza Palace was built in 1516 and is an impressive combination of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The spacious atrium, with its boldly arched gallery, is not to be missed.
The synagogue is a beautifully maintained building from the 15th century. It's is the oldest Sephardic synagogue in Europe and still the house of worship for Dubrovnik's Jewish community.
If part of the joy of travel is discovery, then Dubrovnik is an ideal destination. It offers scenic beauty, magnificent historical architecture, fine local dining and â above all â the sense of a city that has survived and will continue to do so.